Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Sheryl in (modified) Sophie Dress Pattern

We LOVE this image of Sheryl and her beautiful Welsh Springer Spaniel, Saffy.  Sheryl made up our Sophie Dress pattern (sleeved version) in a blue linen bought in France. The original pattern neckline was modified (see below), as detailed in this blog post .

With gorgeous linens now in store and online, it's the perfect time for Sophie!

Sunday, September 27, 2015

Pattern Review - Vogue 9067 view A

Those of you not on Instagram or Facebook may have missed out on seeing this latest creation made by Georgia, so here it is again in full detail.

I totally love this top! It's a beautiful combination of silk crepe de chine in ivory and camel with a touch of French lace added to the bodice. The pattern used was Vogue 9067, view A. Some slight changes were made to the pattern which were to adjust the original armholes, bringing in the armhole line and cut away slightly more at the shoulders with exposed self bias binding finish added to the neckline and armholes.

The original pattern has the top bodice cut in two pieces with a centre front seam. For her version, Georgia wanted to use a small remnant of French lace she picked up at our Surry Hills store. She eliminated the centre front seam to cut the top bodice (in ivory silk) on the fold and then used the original pattern to cut out the lace part, lining up the pretty scalloped edge up with the CF seam line on the pattern. She overlapped the lace over the ivory bodice piece, lining up the scalloped edge down centre front and stitching it in place, as well as basting the two pieces together at the side seam, shoulder and neckline/armhole edge.

The other minor change was to add contrast black Mokuba grosgrain ribbon to secure the back opening in a lovely tie.
The possibilities for this pattern are endless and it also looks fantastic in this colour blocked version Vogue has shown below (although plainer pants would be my option as this top is the star!).

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Going back for two more - Butterick 6178

I originally professed my deep and abiding affection for Butterick 6178 in this post and then I promptly went and made two more pairs. As I mentioned back then, I went a little colour cray-cray on a second pink pair. Granted, it's a soft and gentle pink but the last time I wore this shade with any degree of affection was c.1985 when I sported a similarly shaded, ankle-zip pair of jeans that I liked to wear with a white shirt, pastel patchwork vest and narrow pink LEATHER tie.
The fabric - Pink and Coconut - is a viscose/elastane/polyamide blend. It's a bonded, double-sided woven and is quite thick while still maintaining a really beautiful handle and fall.
It has minimal fray so I left all the finishes raw, including hems, and because of the fabric weight I left off the pockets. I finished off the waistband with a sweet contrast binding, as inspired by Debbie's blog post here.
For my next pair, I returned to my monocromatic happy place, went with basic black and I just know I'm gonna get LOADS of wear with these. The fabric - I Am Nero - is a fantastically matte, drapey, satin backed crepe.
Because of the elastane component I went down a size and again, decided to go sans pockets. I'm wearing them here with my much-loved Ruby Top.
So yes, with three pairs sewn I can safely say that my culotte-y itch has officially been scratched and now I'm looking forward to making a whole lot of summery tops to wear with them.

Friday, September 11, 2015

Vintage Style 2542 silk midi skirt

As a panacea to Melbourne's coldest winter since 1989, I started this distinctly summer skirt back in late July.
The 1978 Style pattern is a beauty and I made up view 1. It was a satisfyingly quick sew, french seams and all. The fabric is totally dreamy, an Italian silk satin backed crepe de chine called Pink Design Attack (also available in this colourway).
For the curved pocket edges and pocket facings, I used a lightweight fusible interfacing to prevent stretching. The pockets aren't particularly deep but they're still pockets and I'm sure my hands will frequently find their way in there. 
If you're looking for a similar style and can't be bothered hunting around for the same pattern, try Megan Nielsen's Brumby Skirt. It's got lovely-looking deep pockets and is a little more generous with its gathers.

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Pattern Review - Vogue 8871 in Aqua Haven Ponti

Nothing like the arrival of spring fabrics and spring weather (sorry Melbourne, we know you're still waiting on the latter) to get us thinking floral. Georgia (a ponti knit fan from waaaay back) couldn't wait to finally give Vogue 8871 (view A) a go.

She chose one of our new Italian printed ponti knits - Aqua Haven. It's a perfect pattern/fabric match as well as being a speedy sewing project.
The only changes she made to the pattern were to add her favoured detail of self binding to the neckline, sleeves and dress hem.
This fabric - in addition to whole lot of other gorgeous pontis - is now available all stores and online.

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Style 3315 in Liberty Scharing Tana

Without fail, every new delivery of seasonal Libertys will have me crushing over one particular print. When we received our latest range six weeks ago, that print was Scharing Tana Purple.
Pretty quickly, I settled on the idea of a sleeveless shirt and then went on a merry pattern-hunting jaunt to find something that matched the vision. I didn't find a shirt pattern but I did find Style 3315 and the top part of view A was exactly what I had in mind. With my limited experience on the shirtmaking front, the absence of a placket/buttons totally sealed the deal.
During the cutting stage, I spent a paaaaainful amount of time pattern-matching and when I joined up the two CF pieces, this happened...
So, yes, when it comes to matching checks apparently you CAN overthink it. Anyhoo, it's a clean matching seam and enough kind souls have said they didn't even notice it so I'll move right along, notch that one down to sewing experience and try not to twitch every time I put it on. For the shoulder strips, I cut them on the cross because - let's be frank friends - that meant two less pieces I needed to pattern match.
When it came to assembling the collar there were some major stumbles in addition to extensive unpicking and, sure, throw some cathartic swearing in there as well. But, as is often the sewing way, persistance paid off and the end result more than made up for the rough sewing journey that this shirt took me on. Now I've got me a sweet, spring-y shirt and I'll just wait patiently for some warmth to go along with it. 
PS. This Liberty print also comes in blue.

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Fossetti Fantasia Frock

If you're signed up to our mailing list or follow us on Facebook or Instagram, you'll know that we've just released our new spring/summer range of ponti knits. We were so excited when we purchased these lovelies in Europe so it's been SUPER exciting to release them to you guys. A great ponti knit is truly one of the most fabulous of fabrics. It's perfect for slim pants and leggings (like our Anita Ponti Pants), jackets, tube/pencil skirts, dresses and tops. Alllllll the possibilities!

For this dress I made for Gabby, I used the fabulous Fossetti Fantasia Punto (*Updated - NOW SOLD OUT). This wild, wacky and whimsical print is so much fun!

The simple dress design was inspired from one that Gabby spied in a RTW. For the top bodice, I used Vogue 8815  (a TNT pattern as shown here and here).

For the skirt part of the dress, I drafted my own pattern pieces. To give the dress more of a kick, I added a hem facing which helps it flute out nicely.

Saturday, August 22, 2015

Pattern Review - McCalls 6612 - View D

Ondula Antique in McCalls 6612

Want another great pattern option for our new Italian jersey knits? Here's Tessuti Chatswood staffer Georgia, in Ondula Antique. The pattern used was McCalls 6612 - view D, the only modification was to shortening the length. 

Follow us on Instagram and Facebook for regular updates and inspiration.

Tuesday, August 18, 2015

Our Brigitte Top to Dress

Brigitte Dress in Ondula Plum Jersey
To create a slimline dress for this lovely and oh-so soft Italian jersey, we made a simple modification to our Brigitte Top. The original pattern was lengthened at the hemline by 18" (46cm), continuing the original hipline all the way to the hem edge. The finished length of this dress is 39" (100cm) and it includes a half inch hem. 
If needed, you could add half an inch at the hip point and then taper back at the hemline.
Worn together with the Sydney Jacket

If you like the look of this jersey, it also comes in two other fabulous colourways - Fresh and Antique.
Ondula Fresh
Ondula Antique
Ondula Plum
To see more of our latest Italian delivery, pop in-store or check out the new additions in our online shop and stay tuned for PLENTY more exciting arrivals coming soon!

Friday, July 24, 2015

My Bad Eye Linden

My Sicilian mother's family are all big believers in malocchio - the evil eye.  Growing up, I'd sometimes see Mum/aunt/cousin/random relative suddenly struck down with a bad-eye symptom that generally manifested as a really, really bad headache. What then followed was a distress call to my aunt who would call her Greek neighbour who would then perform an incantation with oil and water who would then call back my aunt and advise whether headache-afflicted member of family was indeed struck down with evil eye. I'm not familiar with all the mysteries surrounding the magic of this ritual, but I do believe that if the oil dissolves in the water it means you've definitely been bad eye-ed. The good news? Once the ritual was complete, the curse was miraculously lifted and headache would soon disappear. So they said. And "Pfffffffft", I said.
Now I'm not one to tempt fate by walking under a ladder but I certainly don't count myself as being particularly superstitous. When it comes to headaches, there are only two guaranteed things that'll give me one - a hangover and (sad face) Haigh's chocolate. No surprises with the former. The latter? Strange but true. But I had never, ever believed in the bad eye until about five years ago. I'd had a repulsive headache for about three days and, though still functional (albeit in super slo-mo), felt both shitty and nauseous. I think I'd taken more panadol in those three days than I'd taken in my whole life and I hadn't eaten/drunk either of my headache culprits. So for the first time in my life and out of sheer desperation, while standing in a supermarket carpark, I called Mum to ask her to call my aunt to ask her to call her neighbour to ask her if I had the bad eye. Maybe five minutes later I was sitting in my stationary car, eyes closed, debating whether to start the drive home or wait until Mum called me back when - NO WORD OF A LIE - I experienced what felt exactly like a bubble pop behind my forehead followed by a tingling sensation across the same area. Think pins and needles but across your frontal lobe. And then my phone rang and it was Mum and she said "Kathy said you had it really bad". And I TOTALLY AND TRULY SWEAR to both you AND the God of Bad Eyes, my headache - in that moment - completely disappeared. So, as an homage to that day (and also as really just a splendid union of awesome pattern and awesome fabric), let me introduce you to my Bad Eye Linden Sweathshirt.
This Linden is my third and favourite. I Instagrammed the following two last month. The grey version (size 8) was meant to be for the fella but the neckline was too wide for his liking so I serendipitously scored. It's fantastically relaxed in the way I think the pattern is intended, and I really love it.
The Liberty fleece version below was made from a teeny remnant that was, from memory, a little over a metre in length. I don't even know how I managed to eke out all the pattern pieces from the limited meterage I had, but eke out I did by cutting the sleeves and some of the bands off grain. Shortening the sleeves helped too. This one's a size 2. To compensate for this jersey's limited stretch, I lengthened the bands according to Anna's perfect suggestions.
My Bad Eye Linden is also made in size 2 and for this one I went with full sleeve length. Due to the feature fabric being a woven jacquard (and also pretty thick) I decided to use it on the front only. For this I used just half a metre. The sleeves, back and bands are all made from a beautiful thick Italian double knit merino called Ebony Jersey.
The Black Eye is unfortunately now sold out and it also came in a cream which, since Instagramming yesterday, has also sold out. But - good news! - Red Eye is still available in Surry Hills and Melbourne. And while we're on this amazing fabric, feast your eyes on THIS gorgeous jacket made by staff member Jack...
To bad eye believers, wearing an eye pendant or eye motif protects you against being hit by that evil stuff. So don't even think about bad-eyeing me if you see me wearing this jumper because I've got twenty-three times the eye protection now making this one very powerful and awesome Linden!
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