Friday, November 27, 2015

Pattern Review - (OOP) Vogue 2532 in Verde Tropicale

If you follow us on Instagram you may have spied Tessuti Surry Hills staffer Megan in these fabulous shorts made up in Italian 100% viscose crepe 'Verde Tropicale' (available at all Tessuti stores).
For a sweet detail, she used a zig zag stitch along the side seams.
Megan used (OOP) Vogue 2532 and chose a finished length in between view A and B (omitting the belt loops) plus fully interfacing the soft drapey viscose for more structure.

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

My Liberty Kate

When we released our Kate Top pattern a fortnight ago, my first thought was to sew it up in basic black linen. But then why would I do that when I can sew it up in THIS...
And so I did. This gorgeous Liberty print is Deborah Purple and was perfect for the simple lines and style of Kate. 
I made up the scoop neck (View A) and went with the exposed binding. As we mentioned in this post, you can go with an inside binding if you prefer as well.
Don't forget our Kate Top Sewing Competition is currently running with some great cash prizes on offer. Full details over here.

Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Introducing our NEW Maggie Tunic Pattern

Introducing our new pattern - the Maggie Tunic! This loose fitting tunic top features bust darts, shaped V neckline, side splits and three-quarter length flared sleeves. The classic style looks equally great when dressed up for evening or dressed down as a summer tunic or beach cover up.
Two panels were used to create this version in Apricot Mosaic
This stunning silk panel is also available in limited quanitites in Emerald (Chatswood only) and Mauve (chatswood and Melbourne only)
 Suitable fabrics for Maggie include silk, viscose, linen, cotton and rayon.
Maggie Tunic in silk crepe de chine Denim Leopard D'Cat
Maggie Tunic in 100% linen Hartford Watermelon (available all stores)
Contrast running stitch detail on neckline and hemline on sleeve and tunic (as seen here and here)
The Maggie Tunic is now available in both hardcopy and PDF print-at-home/actual size copy shop versions with sizes XXS, XS, S, M, L and XL all included. 

Other suitable fabrics for the Maggie Tunic Top:

Saturday, November 14, 2015

NEW Invisible Zipper Tutorial

If you're a beginner sewer or would like to learn another method of inserting an invisible zipper, then this is a tutorial just for YOU!

NOTE: This tutorial is demonstrating a side invisible zipper (as used in our Chloe Pant and Libby A-line Skirt patterns). As well as adding tear-away vilene shields to the waistline to avoid stretching at the facing stage, tear away vilene shields is also added along the zipper opening to avoid stretching along the hipline curve when attaching the invisible zipper. If inserting an invisible zipper on a straight back seam, vilene shields aren't necessary.

Inserting an invisible zipper

Pin right sides of front and back (outer left hand side of skirt), and stay stitch side seam with long basting stitch (using stitch length 4 or 5 on your machine). Sew correct seam allowance.
Press seam open.
Place right side of invisible zipper face down to open seam allowance. The zipper needs to line up with seam stitching line... 
 ...and the top of the zipper puller (at plastic stopper) should be just under seam allowance on waistline. In this case it's 1/2". (Note: adjust accordingly to your pattern waistline seam allowance)
Pin zipper tape to seam allowance only.
Baste stitch zipper tape edges to seam allowance.
Unpick side seam machine basting stitches (not the basting stitches on zipper tape), starting at waistline and finishing approx 2" down from zipper notch point on side seam.
Open up zipper.
The invisible zipper is now in the correct position and you are ready to sew the invisible zipper in place. Change your machine foot to an invisible zipper foot. With your zipper open, you should now have the zipper teeth facing away from the seam allowance. 
Roll out your zipper teeth and drop your invisible zipper foot down onto zipper, making sure to catch the zipper coil into the groove under the foot.
This helps in turning the teeth coils out of the way so that the machine can stitch behind the teeth. Starting at waistline to finish just before the zipper puller, stitch both sides of the invisible zipper in the same direction. Note: when sewing opposite side of zipper tape use opposite groove under the foot. 
Pull up zipper.

Lastly, tear away Vilene shields on zipper opening and unpick basting stitches at end of zipper to hemline. Remove invisible zipper foot from your machine and replace with regular foot. With right sides together, sew up the rest of the side seam (with normal stitch length), taking correct seam allowance from hemline to stitching line where zipper ends.

This method of basting the invisible zipper tape to seam allowance helps to get your invisible zipper positioned correctly, in particular when making a garment with a waist seam (see image above).

Hope you've found the tutorial helpful :)

Tutorial - How to attach your invisible zipper to a facing like a BOSS!

Following on from our NEW invisible zipper tutorial, here's how to attach your zipper to a facing with your sewing machine like a pro! NOTE: This tutorial is demonstrating a side invisible zipper (as used in our Chloe Pant and Libby A-line Skirt patterns). 

Attaching Your Facing to an Invisible Zipper.

On wrong side of garment, lay wrong side of front and back facings to waistline, matching up notches.
Fold back side seam edge of facing (at zipper tape end) 3⁄4" or 2cm towards wrong side of facing. 
Pin in place on zipper tape.
Next, reach in underneath facing, holding facing seam allowance to garment and zipper seam allowance.
Remove top pin. Flip facing to wrong side and pin 3⁄4" or 2cm on wrong side of facing along garment seam and zipper tape allowance. Note: Check that facing overhang distance from seam allowance edge is the same.
Move needle position to the far left and stitch facing in place to garment seam allowance. (Note: Your machine foot should be butted up to zipper teeth)
Note: check that you have lined up facing waistline to garment waistline edge. Repeat on other side of zipper opening/facing with needle to the far right. 
Cut off exposed tops of zipper tape and excess seam allowance on facing edges.
Next, with front and back facings turned towards the wrong side of garment you should have the lower edge of the facings lined up evenly.
To finish off the waistline, open up zipper and pin right sides of garment and facings together. Pin in place matching up centre front and back, dart notches and closed side seam.
Make sure to turn seam allowance towards facing side and pin in place.
Sew the facing to the waistline taking the correct waist seam allowance, starting at one zipper opening and finishing at the other side of opening.
Tear away Vilene shields at waistline edge ( if you've use vilene shields on the waistline). Turn facing out away from garment and understitch on the facing, making sure to catch the seam allowance at the back of stitching.
Turn facing and zipper in towards the wrong side of skirt. You're done!
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