Thursday, January 31, 2013

Fabric Feature of the Week - Gabby's Choice

This vibrant, asymmetrical patterned double silk georgette - Gabby's Choice - was actually my daughter's pick for McCalls 6102 (with longer sleeves).

This flared dress is unlined and worn with a simple black jersey slip underneath. Hardly necessary in a top or blouse as this double georgette is more opaque and heavier than your regular sheer georgette. And (bonus) much easier to sew too!

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Australia Day trading hours

All Tessuti stores will be closed on Monday 28th January. Regular trading hours will apply on Saturday 26th January. And don't forget, the online shop is ALWAYS open for business.

Happy 'stray-lia Day folks!

Thursday, January 17, 2013

Valerie Top Pattern is here!

Here's our latest Valerie Top Pattern. This sleeveless top pattern is loose and comfortable, ideal for a cool summer top. The side gathered darts, featured on both the front and back, provide the perfect detail to set this top apart from your average tank. The pattern is suited to soft fabrics with weight and drape e.g. silk crepe de chine, rayon, double georgette and silk/cotton voiles.

This pattern really does work best made up in a silk crepe de chine, silk/cotton or cotton voiles and soft, drape-y rayons. The fabric used in the image at top is an Italian silk crepe de chine from last summer and here you can see Valerie made up in another printed silk crepe de chine. 

I hope you like the pattern!

Our Valerie Top Pattern (sizes XS,S, M and L all included) is available in hardcopy OR Print At Home A4/Copy Shop versions.

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Tutorial: Attaching and Joining Double Fold Bias Binding


In preparation for the release of our latest Tessuti Pattern - Valerie Top.  I thought I'd post  a step-by-step tutorial on how to sew and join together bias binding.

In our latest patterns we've recommended using a double fold bias binding (cut in self fabric). This is similar to double-fold french binding that is used to bind quilts, but for garments the binding is much narrower. Obviously this sort of bias binding sewn on the double, only works in finer fabrics like lightweight cottons, linens, silks etc. I love this method of binding, it's easier and gives a nicer finish. It can be used for narrower inside edge binding (as shown here) or for wider bindings to edge both the inner and outer garment. 

Note: The binding strip used for this top is 1 and one quarter inch wide to finish 3/8" wide.

IMPORTANT: Cut your bias binding strip ends at 45 degree angles and ensure that both ends are cut in the SAME direction. Note: bindings are cut longer so you will need to check measure bindings around armholes before cutting off any excess.

Press binding in half lengthways (wrong sides together), taking care to stretch slightly when pressing and making sure raw edges are flush. Note: when the binding is pressed in half the angled end will be shorter on one side (see image above).

Pin raw edges of folded binding to armhole edge, starting approx 2" away from side seam towards the front garment. This will help to avoid adding bulk to the underarm seam. Place a pin 1/2" in from from angled cut edge (see images above).

Continue pinning other side of binding end to overlap pin point (1) and place a pin (2) to correspond the position. Open up folded binding at point 2 and chalk mark position on straight grain of binding and at the same angle of bias end. Cut on chalk mark 2 only.

Unpin angled bias ends only and unfold the binding so you join bias ends together. Take care not to twist binding ends.

Place right sides of angled ends of bias binding together,

Pin in place. Checking to overlap correctly so that when open to right side, bias is one continuous binding with centre fold and raw edges aligned. 

Sew binding ends together, taking 1/4" seam allowance. 

Press seam open.

Trim off seam protruding from right side of binding raw edges.

Repress joined binding in half and repin back to armhole.

 Sew binding in place, taking 1/4" seam allowance.

Turn binding out away from garment and understitch on binding near armhole seam, making sure to catch the seam allowance at the back.

Pin binding evenly around armholes on wrong side of garment

and edge stitch bottom edge of binding.

This will create the topstitch detail around the armhole on the right side of garment. 

Hope you found this tutorial helpful. Happy binding friends!

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Pastel Art Jersey Dress

Here's a simple summer dress made up by Bernadette in our Italian viscose/elastane jersey Pastel Art. The pattern is her own, simply traced off a store bought jersey dress. The neckline, armholes and hemline were finished off with the overlock stitch on her Bernina 530, a perfect finish on fine jerseys. So easy!

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Pattern Review - Girl's Style Book (X)

Happy New Year folks! We hope you and yours enjoyed good times over the Christmas break. You'll have noticed, not unusually for this time of the year, that our blog has copped a bit of neglect over the last couple of weeks but I can assure you we've been beavering away on a couple of new and exciting patterns, plans and announcements so stay tuned. In the meantime, normal programming is resuming here with this pattern review. Stepgirl R chose the pattern and fabric back in September and what was very much intended as a birthday dress has (fancy that) ended up as a Christmas frock. I know better than to put timeframes on anything I make for the kidlets these days, so she was none the wiser and just as pleased. The pattern is X, from the Girl's Style Book (currently sold out but more are on order)...


... and the fabric is White Line Fever. It's quite light and drapey so to give the skirt some extra body, I lined it with a lovely soft and gauze-y cheesecloth that is available in all stores. Best new thing I learnt while making this dress? That a walking foot is THE foot to use for perfect stripe matching! Subsequent thanks must go to Santa for bringing me one for Christmas. He clearly knows my joy too well.

The pattern features a two piece sleeve that's all pretty and petal-like. The only change I'd make if I had a do-over would be to raise the neckline as it sits lower than I would've liked. I also used an invisible zip instead of the recommended dress zip, and shortened it quite a bit. Could've gone shorter but this kid is TALL so give her six months and that skirt will be sitting above the knee. For sure.

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